Housing and outdoor area

The following recommendations are presented as a general example, and do not necessarily correspond to minimum standards from existing regulations, e. g. EU Organic Regulations. Regulations do not necessarily reflect best practice and may not be adapted to the different climatic and local conditions in different African regions. To produce in accordance with organic standards in a country, farmers must consult an organic certification body (see also chapter 8.2 on organic certification).

Floor

The floor needs to be dry and flat with a layer of heavy gravel or wire mesh embedded to keep out rats. In organic agriculture, at least one-third of the walkable ground in the house needs to be covered with straw or an equivalent litter material. A deep litter floor system is recommended. In a deep litter system, an initial layer of litter is spread as scratching material for the animals and to absorb faeces. When the litter is soiled, it is replaced or new layers of litter are added on top. To provide increased ventilation in areas with humidity, the floor can be slatted underneath the perches (maximum 2/3 of the accessible surface).

Smaller buildings for up to 200 chickens can be raised on stilts for protection from flooding and predators. In this case, the same flooring requirements apply (maximum 2/3 can be slatted or made of wire mesh or other materials). The floor should be raised at least one meter to allow for cleaning and good ventilation, and the stilts should be rot-resistant or have stone/ concrete footings.

Litter

Any material like wood shavings, straw, wood chips or hay is suitable. Always keep in mind that litter particles are also eaten by some chickens. Therefore, only material which is not poisonous can be used, and wood shavings from poisonous trees must be avoided. If available, the litter material should come from organic production. The litter must be kept dry by bringing in new material regularly (if necessary daily) and needs to be replaced by new litter if it is getting too dirty or before a new flock of chickens is being brought in. Old litter can be composted for use as fertiliser, as it is nutrient-rich.

Manure management

A large volume of droppings will accumulate under the perches. Therefore, farmers should install either a dung pit or a dropping board under the perches. If the house is built on stilts, the droppings that accumulate under the house should also be collected regularly and can also be composted for use as fertiliser.

Roof

The roof should be stable and waterproof. It can be made of sheet metal, thatch or tiles. A thatched roof must be replaced approximately every three years or as soon as ticks or mites get into it. The optimal roof overhang of the walls is one meter. This provides the best protection from rain and sun.

Walls

A wall of at least 60 cm should enclose the entire building to prevent flooding and to keep the litter inside. Then, the end walls should be fully enclosed, and the other walls should have windows and wire mesh for ventilation installed. To allow chickens access to the outdoors during the day, small hinged doors (e. g. “pop holes”) can be installed in the walls at least 20 cm above the floor. This allows the chickens to easily hop in and out, but also helps prevent flooding and keeps the litter inside. These small doors should be able to be closed firmly during the night for the safety of the birds.

Walls must be rat- and snake-proof and secure against wild predatory animals (e. g. fox, bobcats, weasel). This means that sturdy materials should be used for the walls, and the wire mesh used for the open sides must be fine enough to prevent entry by these predators. Walls should be smooth and easy to clean to prevent an invasion of bugs and mites. Local materials such as wooden slats, mud, bamboo slats, sheet metal, stone walls, concrete or palm fronds can be used for the walls. In colder regions, the walls need to be thicker or insulated.

Windows

The size of the windows depends on the climate but in general, the windows should be as large as possible because good ventilation is critical for chicken health. If possible, the windows should have shutters or curtains that can be closed to protect the animals from wind, rain, dust or sun.

Lighting

The chicken house should be very well lit, as light plays an important role for the growth, sleeping, laying and eating behaviour of chickens. Young chickens will reach sexual maturity more quickly if the length of daylight is slowly increased, as is natural when changing from winter to summer. Laying performance is also positively affected by good lighting, as is eating, as chickens identify food primarily by sight. As a general rule, during the daytime it should be bright enough to read a newspaper anywhere in the house.

As previously described, chickens will preferentially choose an elevated roost/perch for safety and comfort while they sleep. Therefore, to support their natural behaviours, it is necessary to provide perching space for each bird in their house. Properly constructed perches also have the advantages of reducing the contact of the animals with their manure, and making the manure easy to remove from the house for use as fertiliser.

Perches can be made in various types. As a general rule, the lowest perch should be at least 50 cm above the floor. The distance between the perches should be 30 to 50 cm, and the distance between the wall and the first perch should be at least 20 cm. The perches should be angled so that the droppings of the chicken above do not fall on a chicken below.

Perches can be made from branches with the bark removed or any other smooth material with a diameter of 3.5 to 5 cm. As shown in the illustration, installing perches with the proper dimensions and shape allows comfortable perching and avoid injuries to the feet of the birds.

Manure management under the perches

Chickens will deposit over half of their manure during the night while they are resting on their perches. Therefore, it is desirable to install a dropping board (first choice) or pit (second choice) below the perches to facilitate cleaning. Dropping boards are preferred because the removal of droppings is easier. Frequent removing of droppings highly increases the air quality in the house. In addition, dung pits may harbour mice and rats and offer hiding places to parasites such as the poultry red mite.

To install a dropping board, a wooden or metal board is placed about 20 cm below the perches that extends from the lowest perch to the wall. This board will catch the majority of the droppings, and make cleaning and removal of the droppings easier. If no dropping board can be installed, the floor under the perches should be slatted with a dropping pit underneath. Dropping boards or pits should be cleaned regularly (boards at minimum every week, pits at minimum every four weeks) to ensure good air quality in the house. The manure can then be dried, stored, and used as fertiliser for plants.

Various setups and materials can be used for nests. As a general rule, nests should be placed in a shaded place, give easy access for egg collection, and be removable for thorough cleaning of the chicken house. One nest for every five hens should be provided.

The nests can be either individual, or with several nests together on a shelf. One convenient setup is shown below, with the perches and dropping board installed over individual nests. One can also use baskets, cardboard boxes or pots.

To ensure that the hens use the nests, they must be kept clean, and filled with soft, deep, clean litter like husks, straw, hay or shavings. The litter should be softer and deeper than the litter used on the ground to encourage the chickens to lay their eggs in the nests and not on the ground. To make nests more attractive and prevent the chickens from laying on the ground or outside the hen house, it is also advisable to place nests at different levels. Some chickens prefer laying eggs at ground level, and others prefer to lay eggs higher up. If the chickens have support to reach a nest, e. g. a branch in front of the nest that they can fly to before entering the nest, the nests can be at a height of up to 1.5 m.

Ideally, hens should have to cross perches or a short surface of wire mesh or slats to get into the nests. This helps clean the feet of the hen before entering the nest. If one has a henhouse with a dung pit, it is therefore advisable to install the nests above the dung pit, so that the birds cross the wire mesh before entering the nests.

Sufficient and clean water and feed is essential for the productivity and health of chickens. Therefore, there should be enough feeders that all birds can eat at the same time, and enough drinkers distributed throughout the house to allow easy access to water for all birds.

Feeders

Feeders should be kept clean, and should be located in the house rather than in the outdoor area. To avoid wastage, a feed trough should not be filled to more than 1/3 of capacity. Before putting new feed in the feeders, old feed and droppings musts be removed, and spilled feed must be cleaned up regularly as it can lead to moulding or attract unwanted animals.

Drinkers

Drinkers should be kept clean, and should be located in the house. They should always be placed in the same location, as the birds get used to their placement. Design drinkers that the birds cannot sit on or in them, and so water does not run back into the tank or water pipe that supplies them. Drinkers supplied with water pipes or tanks will need the piping and tanks cleaned regularly. Additionally, position them high enough that litter is not scratched into them, but low enough that all chickens, even the smallest one, can easily reach the water surface.

Chickens should have the opportunity to drink from an open water surface. This is especially important in warmer regions, as chickens need to drink a lot to prevent heat stress. With only nipple drinkers, chickens have been found to drink less water, which can have negative effects on egg production and behaviour. Therefore, an open water surface should always be provided even when using nipple drinkers. It is worthwhile to spend the necessary time to provide the birds with constant, easy access to clean water.

Once the chicken house is properly constructed, care must be taken to keep it clean to protect both the birds and the investment made in the structure. Simple cleaning steps help prevent diseases and extend the life of the chicken house (image below).

Whether practicing all-in/all-out (all-in/all-out management is explained in the chapter “Health and diseases”) or simply preparing a space for new birds, the steps listed in the table below should be followed. Cleaning should begin several days before the new birds are scheduled to move in. To facilitate cleaning and drying, a dry and sunny day should be chosen. Cleaning and disinfection take time and require the completion before each of the following steps. Skipping or not completing a step can lead to failure, and the survival of harmful viruses, bacteria, fungi, and parasites that can harm the next flock.

However, not all farms require the full procedure, as this very much depends on the number of birds as well as on the intensity of management. Not all farms will have the resources to complete all the steps, so the best course of action is to do as much as possible. Steps 1 to 5 and 7 should always be carried out, step 6 (disinfection) is recommended in case of health problems in the previous flock. Disinfection without previous cleaning and drying is useless!

Pasture selection and maintenance

As with other livestock species, selection and maintenance of the pasture areas are important. When selecting potential pasture areas, wet and humid areas should be avoided as they bear a greater risk of parasitic infection.

Pasture maintenance requires planning and resources. For example, cutting of grass and sowing new grass may be necessary.

Encouraging the birds to use the pasture

In the beginning, some movable elements may need to be placed close to the chicken house to encourage the birds to explore the new pasture. If the birds do not feel safe, they will stay near the entrances, both increasing parasite pressure and destroying the pasture in that area.

Scattering grains in the run can also be helpful to encourage the chickens to use the entire pasture. However, this can attract wild birds or other animals which can spread diseases. Therefore, only the amount of grains should be scattered which is immediately eaten by the chickens while under supervision.

Additional safety recommendation:

Adding some black chickens in the flock deters predatory birds, as the black chickens look like crows.

Co-grazing the flock with other livestock on the farm

Grazing the poultry flock in the same pasture with other livestock (e. g. cattle, goats, sheep, horses) offers multiple benefits. The dung of the livestock attracts insects, which provide valuable protein-rich nutrition to the chickens. Predators are deterred by the presence of the other animals. The other livestock benefit from fewer flies and ticks in the pasture, as these are eaten by the chickens.