Marketing and organic certification of cotton production

Major markets for organic cotton are in industrialized countries. Consumers buy organic cotton because it is produced and processed without using agro-chemicals and thus is known to cause less skin irritation and allergies. Such consumers also care about nature conservation and supporting farmers in the tropics in achieving a sustainable livelihood. Originally, most organic cotton production was processed into garments containing 100% organic cotton fibre. Today there is a trend to blending a certain percentage (usually 5–10%) of organic fibres with conventional ones.

Cotton is a rather complex value chain inside the textile sector. It needs well-organized partners in order to be successful for the producers of seed cotton. State policies and normally direct services in research, extension, ginning and/or marketing and regulation are required. The relation between these state servi-ces and institutions, the private sector and the organized farmer community are crucial for a successful and sustainable business.

Conversion of small-holder farms in the tropics to organic cotton is usually facilitated by companies or NGOs, which provide extension and inputs and organize for the certification, processing and marketing of the produce. Marketing and organic certification needs to be discussed within the producer organization and with the business partners along the value chain (lint producer, exporter, retailer, etc.). A particular challenge is the ’contamination’ with GMO cotton, which is rapidly expanding. Buffer zones are normally sufficient with 25% of the field size (if the neighbouring field is 100 m large, the distance should be at least 50 meters), but if GMO cotton is planted in the same village or district, then consequences must be anticipated and considered. 

General requirements for certification of organic cotton production are:

• During production of cotton, no use of synthetic pesticides including herbicides and fertilizers or genetically modified planting materials is allowed. Any pesticide contamination from neighbouring conventional cotton fields through soil erosion or wind drift should also be avoided. Machines and equipment used in conventional application of pesticides and fertilizers need to be cleaned well before handling organic cotton.
• During postharvest handling, clear separation of the ginning, grading and storage of organic cotton is necessary to avoid cross-contamination from conventional cotton. Ideally organic cotton farmers identify a facility, where their cotton is handled. The farmers sign an agreement with the facility owner in order to guarantee preferential treatment of the organic cotton.

Specific national or international organic standards may define additional requirements for production and postharvest handling of organic cotton. Farmers should, therefore, consult the national organic movement or organic certification body operating within the region or country.